Juneteenth: Emancipation Day

On New Year’s Eve in 1862, a group of New England abolitionists and free African Americans spent the night singing and praying for freedom in a special Emancipation Watch Night service. The next day, Abraham Lincoln uttered these words: “All persons held as slaves are, and henceforward shall be, free.”

Since Emancipation was recognized in the South only as the states were occupied by Union forces, different days are commemorated in different states. Many blacks remember Emancipation in church on Dec. 31, just as that first group did in 1862.

But the biggest celebrations of all are held in Texas on June 19--Juneteenth. On this day, drill teams and marching bands strut their stuff. Men and women are honored for community service work. Music fills the air. A dance party goes all night long. At church services, choirs and ministers’ voices ring. And tables are laden with soul food.

Postwar migrations have carried Texas’ Juneteenth celebration north to New York and as far west as California.

Cracklings, small pieces of pork fat that have been fried until crisp, give this corn bread a wonderful savoriness.

CRACKLING BREAD

2 cups cornmeal

1/2 cup boiling water

1 teaspoon melted butter

2 eggs

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 pound finely minced salt pork, back bacon or thick-sliced bacon, fried until crisp and crumbled (1 cup cracklings)

Place cornmeal in large mixing bowl. Pour in boiling water and melted butter and stir to blend. Let cool slightly.

Beat eggs well in medium bowl. Stir in milk and salt. Add egg mixture to cornmeal mixture. Stir in baking powder and cracklings until smooth batter is formed.

Turn batter into well-greased 13x9-inch pan. Bake at 375 degrees until tester inserted in center of bread comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Kale, collard, turnip or mustard greens all work well in this dish. Look for young, deep-green leaves, which are the most tender and flavorful. Discard any yellowed leaves.

HAM HOCKS WITH GREENS

4 smoked ham hocks

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

4 pounds greens

1 onion, minced

Salt

Place ham hocks in deep stockpot. Sprinkle with pepper and cover with water. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer 1 hour.

Remove spines from leaves of greens. Tear leaves into pieces. Place leaves in sink filled with water to rinse. Remove leaves, empty and refill sink and repeat process at least 2 more times, until leaves are completely clean.

Add greens and onion to stockpot. Increase heat and return to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until ham is tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Season to taste with salt. Makes 4 servings.

Since most of us don’t have the time or facilities for a proper deep-pit barbecue, this traditional recipe has been adapted for home ovens. You won’t get the smoky taste from hickory coals, but you’ll still get plenty of flavor and tender rib meat.

OVEN-ROASTED SPARERIBS

5 pounds pork spareribs

1 lemon, thinly sliced

1 cup minced onions

Barbecue Sauce

Cut ribs into serving-size pieces and place on rack in roasting pan. Top each piece with thin slice of lemon. Sprinkle onions over ribs.

Roast at 450 degrees 30 minutes. Brush ribs generously with some Barbecue Sauce. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue roasting 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Baste with sauce every 15 minutes. If sauce gets too thick, add little hot water. If ribs seem to be drying out, cover with foil last 30 minutes of roasting. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

If you’re cooking for a crowd, this recipe can be easily doubled. Store any extra in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator, and use within two weeks.

Barbecue Sauce

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

2 tablespoons paprika

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1/2 cup cider vinegar

2 cups tomato juice

1/2 cup catsup

1 cup water

Mix together brown sugar, paprika, salt, dry mustard, bay leaves, chili powder, cayenne pepper, Worcestershire, vinegar, tomato juice, catsup and water in large saucepan.

Place over high heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until slightly thickened, about 30 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Makes about 4 cups.

SWEET POTATO PIE

3 large sweet potatoes

2 eggs, beaten

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup melted butter

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, optional

1 unbaked (9-inch) deep-dish pie shell

Boil whole unpeeled sweet potatoes in water to cover until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside until cool enough to handle.

Peel potatoes and mash in large bowl until velvety-smooth. Add eggs, milk, melted butter, brown sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon. Beat until well blended and creamy-smooth.

Pour mixture into pie shell. Bake at 425 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees and bake until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Serve warm, at room temperature or chilled. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

BUTTERMILK MERINGUE PIE

3 eggs, separated

1 1/4 cups sugar

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 cup flour

2 cups buttermilk

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 unbaked (9-inch) deep-dish pie shell

Beat egg yolks with 1 cup sugar in medium bowl until well blended and lemon-colored. Cut butter into flour in large mixing bowl until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg mixture, buttermilk, lemon juice and lemon zest to flour mixture. Pour into pie shell. Bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake 30 minutes more. Remove pie from oven and set aside.

Beat egg whites in large bowl until stiff peaks form. Beat in remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Spread meringue on pie, making sure meringue touches inner edges of crust, to keep from shrinking. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Return pie to oven and bake until meringue is lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings.