Topanga Portrait : Struggling to Preserve Nature South of the Valley

Long considered a haven for free thinkers and the environmentally aware, Topanga Canyon was a focal point of the hippie movement in the 1960s. And from the looks of things, life there hasn’t changed much.

Landmarks lining Topanga Canyon Boulevard include a roadside crystal stand, a “clothing optional” community and an outdoor theater that sponsors an annual event called “Peacefest.” Probably its most famous landmark is the New Age restaurant, Inn of the Seventh Ray.

Attracted to the canyon’s seclusion yet proximity to Los Angeles, today’s Topangans include musicians, artists and actors. But the artsy, New Age image is also a bit misleading. Many residents are attracted to the area simply by its rustic beauty.

It can be said, however, that many Topanga residents and their dwellings, from trailers to gated estates, are indeed eclectic. Houses of varying sizes dot the hilly landscape, but development has been kept to a minimum. Residents are vocal about their desire to keep Topanga undeveloped-witness the 15-year battle over a proposed development currently known as Canyon Oaks.

A Colorful History

The name: There is some disagreement over the exact meaning of Topanga. A Native American word, it means either “where the mountains meet the sea” or “place above.” Topanga’s first inhabitants thousands of years ago lived off the area’s many natural resources, farming and fishing the creek. A village dating back 8,000 years has been unearthed in what is now Topanga State Park.

Topanga State Park: Designated a state park in 1974, it had grown to 9,000 acres with 32 miles of trails by the mid-1980s. When the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area was established in 1978, Topanga State Park became a major link in the chain of parkland reaching from Griffith Park to Point Mugu.

Elysium Fields: This “clothing optional” community opened in 1968 despite resistance from neighbors. Elysium has been ordered closed by the county several times, but always reopens and remains a fixture off Topanga Canyon Boulevard.

Community Issues

Development: A long-running clash between developers and residents has endured over a proposed development calling for several hundred housing units, a golf course and commercial center. The Los Angeles County Regional Planning Commission approved the project--once called Montevideo, now called Canyon Oaks--and the Board of Supervisors is tentatively scheduled to consider the project Jan. 13.

Disaster vulnerability: Famed for its natural beauty, Topanga seems cursed by the very thing that makes it attractive. Still recovering from the fire that burned more than 17,000 acres in November, Topanga has survived a number of natural disasters. The County Fire Department recorded 15 major fires since the 1920s, many followed by floods and landslides. Two of the worst floods were in 1969 and 1980, when more than 25 inches of rain fell each year.

Day laborers: In response to complaints about immigrant day laborers loitering near Topanga’s center area, a group called PATCH, (People Assisting Topanga Canyon with Helping Hands) three years ago created a labor exchange at a vacant lot where laborers were given information, food and a Spanish translator was available. The group isnow looking fo a new location because an archeological exploration will be conducted on the privately owned land.

Community Profile

Based on 1990 U.S. census figures; includes part of Calabasas

Stats: Size: 21 sq. mi. Population: 10,883

Median age: 40

Percentage of housing units owned by householders: 86% Number of households: 3,914

Persons per household: 2.7

Population over 25 with bachelor’s degree: 52.5%

Population below poverty level: 3.6%

Income

Mean household income is more than twice the Los Angeles average.

Topanga: $102,667

Citywide average: $45,701

Northeast Valley: $44,444

Southeast Valley: $48,182

Northwest Valley: $56,427

Southwest Valley: $61,722

Ethnicity

White: 89%

Asian: 5%

Latino: 4%

African American: 1%

Other: 1%

Sources: 1990 U.S. Census data; “The Topanga Story”; L.A. County 3rd District supervisor’s office.