Doing the Limbo on 3rd Street

Mobay Venice just got a new cousin. Jamaican-born Errol Gardner, who opened Mobay Malibu in 1991 (and closed it after the fire) has just opened Limbo on 3rd Street with chef Christopher Hilton, formerly sous chef at both Mobay Venice and Mobay Malibu.

Gardner has taken a deep storefront and painted it the saturated colors of the Caribbean. The bar, decorated with bright Picasso-esque paintings, features tropical-themed drinks. And past the row of lush potted jungle plants is a garden room with walls the color of ripe melon and a glass roof.

A special pureed soup of potato is bright with fresh ginger. Lobster and crab cakes come in a tangy tamarind lobster sauce. And Limbo’s jerked chicken breast packs some authentic heat.

There’s something very appealing about the flavors in Limbo’s contemporary Caribbean-fusion menu, but some dishes could use some editing: less sauce and fewer ingredients.

Like Mobay, Limbo embodies the high spirits of the Caribbean, which seems particularly appealing in the summer.

BE THERE

Restaurant Limbo, 8338 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (213) 866-8258. Open daily for dinner. Lunch starts Aug. 4, brunch on Aug. 9. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Starters $5 to $7; entrees $12 to $15.