A Side Dish of Barbs on ‘Raymond”

With the series scoring its best ratings ever in this, its sixth season, it sometimes seems as if yes, “Everybody Loves Raymond.”

But even with the slam-dunk Top 10 finishes and the Emmys earlier this month for Patricia Heaton and Doris Roberts, some quibbles by avowed longtime viewers have begun surfacing on various Web sites. Some are apparently concerned by what they feel has been a shift in the TV marriage of Heaton and star Ray Romano from light bickering to outright hostility, a trend they believe is eating away at the domestic heart of the show.

But in tonight’s standout Thanksgiving episode, “Older Women” (9 p.m., CBS), the ensemble comedy feels as sure-handed as ever.

Written by executive producers Tucker Cawley and Phil Rosenthal and directed by Gary Halvorson, the plot has Debra’s recently divorced father, Warren (Robert Culp), announcing that he’s bringing a “friend” to the family dinner--where ex-wife Lois (Katherine Helmond) will also be in attendance.

What ensues is stuffed with enough well-crafted lines and performances to fuel a lesser sitcom for weeks. One line seems to play to the concerned fans’ case, however. Derisively called “Einstein” by Debra, Ray replies, “I wish I was Einstein, because then I’d invent a time machine and go back to when you were nice.” Some may wish they could go along for the ride. But as long as laughs can be mined from the conflicts as rewardingly as in tonight’s holiday episode, the time machine can wait.

Surf Report

SPORTS

On Monday Night Football, the New York Giants head west to face the Minnesota Vikings (6 p.m. ABC).

In preseason college hoops, the UCLA Bruins meet Houston in the first round of the Maui Invitational, from Hawaii (8:30 p.m. ESPN2).

SPECIALS

“Cirque du Soleil: Alegria” (5 & 9 p.m. Bravo) promises oohs and aahs as the daring young acrobats of the famed circus troupe fly through the air with the greatest of ease.

SERIES

Movin’ on up: Marla Gibbs (“The Jeffersons”) is back as Darryl’s mother, just in time for a Thanksgiving visit, on “The Hughleys” (8 p.m. UPN).

Courage under fire: The much-lauded mayor of New York City, Rudolph W. Giuliani, is profiled on “Biography” (8 p.m. A&E;).

It’s a “Law & Order” reunion of sorts as Chris Noth guest stars opposite former colleague Jill Hennessy on “Crossing Jordan” (10 p.m. NBC).