2001 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Velvety and smooth with dark juicy fruit and a smoky edge, this Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is primo quaffing wine from a region of Italy that still has bargains to offer. The 2001 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Cataldi Madonna is an example of clean, modern winemaking from a region that’s been slower to catch on to the revolution than some others. Though it’s pitched to an international market, this sturdy red has enough character to make it interesting.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Abruzzi (central Italy)

Price: About $12

Style: Ripe and concentrated

Food it goes with: Rustic stews and roasts, game and wild birds.

Where you find it: The Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; Wine Expo in Santa Monica, (310) 828-4428; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa (949) 650-8463.