Bistros

Angelique Cafe

Wedged into a corner of the Fashion District, this bi-level bistro remains something of a secret. But those who discover Bruno Herve Commereuc’s cooking usually come back. The Normandy native is a master of charcuterie, turning out sublime pates and flavorful sausages. But take note: The restaurant is not open for dinner.

* Charcuterie basket, $10.95; sandwiches, $7.95 to $9.45. 840 S. Spring St., downtown L.A., (213) 623-8698.

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Pastis

Although this local favorite bills itself as a contemporary bistro, there are plenty of traditional offerings including black mussels steamed with white wine and fresh herbs beef bourguignon, and bouillabaisse with garlic croutons and spicy rouille. Just want a nosh? Order the charcuterie board and a Fischer Amber at the bar.

* Petites assiettes, $7 to $16; grandes assiettes, $15 to $26. 8114 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 655-8822.

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Mirabeau

Chef-owners David Pratt and Katie Averill have gone to great lengths to transport diners to France. All you need to do is get past the strip mall locale, which is easy when you’re digging into a classic cassoulet and listening to Serge Gainsbourg. Those looking to up the romance should request a patio table, with an ocean view.

* Appetizers, $7.50 to $20; entrees, $16.50 to $25.50. 17 Monarch Bay Plaza, Dana Point, (949) 234-1679.

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Mimosa

The sunny Provencal yellow walls in this cozy bistro are decorated with old photos and mirrors. Meals begin with oversized jars of cornichon and nicoise olives. Then try chef Jean-Pierre Bosc’s lusty St. Tropez fish soup or decadent macaroni and cheese laced with prosciutto. For dessert, the ile flotante (floating island) is a must.

* First courses, $7.50 to $13.00; main courses, $16 to $28. 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 655-8895.

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Le Petit Bistro

One in a duo of bustling bistros, this Valley outpost has lots of dark wood, oversized mirrors and Toulouse-Lautrec style murals. To go along, there are standards like onion soup and grilled calves liver. We like the eggplant tart, a pretty assemblage of eggplant, spinach, onion, tomato and basil.

* Appetizers, $5.95 to $9.25; entrees, $11.50 to $19.95. 13360 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 501-7999.

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-- Leslee Komaiko