If you go . . .

If you go THE BEST WAY TO THAILAND From LAX: Connecting service (change of planes) to Chiang Mai is offered on Thai, Eva and Korean. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $820. The Thai Elephant Conservation Center is in northern Thailand, about 375 miles north of Bangkok. The nearest major city is Chiang Mai, about 45 miles to the northwest; the closest town, Lampang, is 20 miles southeast; The center is on Highway 11, which connects to Chiang Mai and Lampang. Bus service is erratic, but the price is right, less than $1 from Lampang and $3 from Chiang Mai, each way. For a day visit from Chiang Mai, you can rent a car with an English-speaking driver. We rented through www.chiangmaionwheels.com and were very satisfied. Cost for the driver and air-conditioned vehicle for a day ranges from $31 to $47.SEEING ELEPHANTS Fifteen to 20 elephants perform for 45 minutes in an open-air show, with general admission bleachers that seat about 700 people. Shows include elephants responding to vocal commands, demonstrating log-hauling techniques, painting with brushes on canvasses and being hand-fed by visitors. Shows are at 10 and 11 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. daily.Elephants are bathed at 9:45 a.m. and 1:15 p.m. daily.There is an art gallery to purchase elephant art; an open-air nursery with babies and moms on display; a medical infirmary where newly arrived elephants are treated; elephant rides around the grounds. The 300-acre site has snack bars and a restaurant with Thai and American food.The general one-day admission, which includes most of the activities above, is about $2.55 for adults and $1.70 for kids; elephant rides are extra, about $12 for a 30-minute ride. For multi-day stays to apprentice as a trainer check the website (reservations for this must be made far in advance), www.changthai.com. One-day training starts at about $105.OTHER ELEPHANT OPS The Royal Elephant National Museum in Bangkok displays the history of white elephants. Open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Admission is about 15 cents. For information: 011-66-2-282-3336.The Surin Elephant Roundup is a colorful festival held annually (Nov. 15-23 this year) in the northeastern Thailand town of Surin, a seven-hour bus trip from Bangkok. On the final weekend, up to 250 elephants appear in full dress, in a series of parades, demonstrations of logging skills and participating in a battle reenactment. Admission is about $1 to $24. (The more expensive seats are closest to the elephants, have English translation of events and, most important, seats in the shade.) TO LEARN MORE Tourism Authority of Thailand, (323) 461-9814, www.tourismthailand.org