Counter Intelligence: Lazy Ox Canteen

A lot has remained the same at Lazy Ox Canteen, but there are new touches on the menu.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

A seasonal salad is made with fava beans and Valencia oranges.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The restaurant has a dark, narrow dining room jammed into the ground floor of a new condo complex on San Pedro Street in the Little Tokyo area of downtown L.A.   (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The founding chef of Lazy Ox, Josef Centeno, recently left to open his own place, Baco Mercat, downtown.   (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Calamari a la plancha is served upon a pea purée.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Perfecto Rocher and expeditor Cala Miller confirm an order.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

One of the highlights on the menu is the huevo Andoni, a slow-poached egg (cooked for nearly an hour in a 144.5-degree water bath) atop tiny cubes of Spanish chorizo and puréed French fries.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Nutella flan and almond crumbs.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Yulu banana trifle.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)