Newsletter: Counter: Bulgogi and beer

Welcome to summer. Although the season technically begins on Tuesday, it’s already arrived for many of us, between graduation and the rising temperatures. Which means it’s a terrific time to check out two of our favorite things: Korean barbecue and beer.

This week, Jonathan Gold reviews a newish Korean bulgogi specialist in Koreatown, where he finds stellar versions of the dish. And we check out L.A. Beer Week, which begins today. In other news, we pair wine with pastrami, head to the North Valley in search of great corn tortillas and consider a new kid-friendly restaurant in West Hollywood.

– Amy Scattergood

Bulgogi love

Jonathan considers the Koreatown restaurant Gwang Yang BBQ, the only American branch of a small Seoul-based chain, a grand place that is devoted to the cult of bulgogi. It is apparently terrific barbecue, particularly the Gangnam-style bulgogi — and there is bibimbap for lunch too.

Before and after bulgogi.

(Mariah Tauger / For The Times )

What to drink with Langer’s No. 19

Pairing wine with food can be tricky, especially with some of our favorite foods — like Langer’s famous No. 19 pastrami sandwich. Wine writer Patrick Comiskey suggests trying Australian Grenache, and considers five of them.

Langer’s pastrami sandwich with old vine Grenache from Australia’s Barossa Valley.

(Callaghan O’Hare / Los Angeles Times )

In praise of the corn tortilla

A great taco starts with a great tortilla, ideally handmade on-site. Food writer Ben Mesirow finds five terrific places in the North Valley neighborhoods of Pacoima, San Fernando and Sylmar to find great corn tortillas — and the tacos, birria and barbacoa that go with them.

L.A. Beer Week

Beer writer John Verive previews L.A. Beer Week, as the eighth beer festival begins today, a nine-day showcase of craft breweries and all their beer. Check out events, beer crawls and beer dinners, just in time for some more hot weather.

Where to take your kids to dinner

If an organic, kid-friendly restaurant, marketplace and playrooms from actress Jessica Biel sounds like your kind of thing, then Au Fudge is the place for you — and your chocolate-loving children. The menu caters to kids and adults, with dishes such as roast chicken with sweet carrot mash and crispy Brussels sprouts. And there’s a full bar for the grown-ups.

Au Fudge in West Hollywood, with its playrooms, grilled cheese sticks, au pairs and toys, may be the most kid-friendly restaurant in Los Angeles.

(Christina House / For The Times )

Your “City of Gold” reminder: It’s playing. Maybe go see it. Maybe don’t go hungry, which brings us to …

Jonathan Gold’s 101

Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, is online for subscribers.

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