Pop Music Reviews : Yanni’s ‘Nouvelle Cuisine’ Lacks Substance

SAN DIEGO — Judging from the gasps of applause after each instrumental, the near-capacity crowd Thursday night at Copley Symphony Hall was delighted by Yanni’s New Age candelabra music. Consider it a case of modest demands easily met.

This is the musical equivalent of the nouvelle cuisine that, mercifully, has lost favor in the world of dining. The emphasis is on pleasing presentation, and the Greek-born performer-composer, who will be at the Wiltern Theatre in Los Angeles tonight, operates on the premise that his patrons accept the notion of rich-sounding ingredients justifying skimpy fare.

Ultimately, Yanni’s “compositions” are little more than attractive garnishes in search of an entree, served by the “chef” moving back and forth between a bank of synthesizers and a grand piano, and backed by a nine-piece band that included a string quartet.

It is no coincidence that the pieces’ titles--”Nostalgia,” “Reflections of Passion,” etc.--sound like the names of perfumes; Yanni’s sound is implied grace and sensitivity peddled as the genuine items. This music is only a high-tech step removed from the mindless fluff heard on Beautiful Music radio.